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Sunday, August 17, 2014

Kennedy Space Center

Sunday, April 20. Port Canaveral and the Kennedy Space Center. Another day and two nights at sea, but in FAR calmer seas than previously. I enjoy days at sea almost as much as I like being in port. It is relaxing with plenty of time to read or watch in-room movies, and someone else makes the beds and prepares the meals. Speaking of which, once again, we had little trouble following our vegan diet, but as always, real vegan food isn’t often in evidence so we usually have to settle for roasted vegetables in various forms. This cruise was different, however! After the first couple of days, our dining steward told us there was a famous vegan chef on board who was creating vegan options that will be available on ALL Regent ships in the near future. Meanwhile, he would be happy to prepare special meals for us if we were willing to play guinea pigs for him. You bet! So to our delight, we had excellent real vegan meals every night, with plenty of protein and flavor. I do hope I live long enough that eating out in mainstream venues as a vegan isn’t as challenging as it is now. Yes, we can avoid animal products, but usually, that is at the expense of protein and flavor because we are typically settling for a vegetarian meal without the cheese. Not a problem on an occasional restaurant visit, but not so great on a long trip were it is rare to see even a bean, much less tofu or quinoa! This cruise was a delightful surprise, and made us even more interested in cruising with Regent in the future.

Port Canaveral isn’t much to look at, but the Kennedy Space Center really wowed us! Even though we have always known about its existence, we have never visited and truly had no idea how fascinating it is. This place is a must see no matter what your age or degree of interest in the space program.

We began our tour in the museum dedicated to the earliest space flights where, oddly, we were greeted by a replica of the Soviet capsule, Sputnik, that beat the US into space. An unexpressed theme throughout the center is the sense of international cooperation coupled with peaceful rivalry that has made space exploration a happy island away from the hostilities of earth, so really, it is fitting that Sputnik should greet us. 

My favorite part of the museum exhibits was a sign outside a replica of Mission Control from the early US space flights. It reads in part, “With rudimentary technology—in fact, there is more computing power in your smartphone than what existed in this entire room—each of the six missions that were commanded here were successful from lift-off to splash-down.” I was blown away to think of all the power in my pocket that didn’t exist ANYWHERE at that time, and yet, what they accomplished! 

That sense of accomplishment was the other principal thought I carried away from our visit. The KSC took us back to a time when we were all justifiably proud to be Americans, to a time when our country was not obsessed with poking around in other countries’ business or trying to remake the “less developed” world over in our image, to a time when we were able to bury our political differences and agree to step into space as one world and not as winners over losers. Very nostalgic, that stroll down memory lane.

While still in the museum building, we were treated to an i-Max movie of the cosmos, based on photographs taken by the Hubble telescope. WOW! Intellectually we all know we are a very tiny part of the universe, but seeing those photos you get a much more dramatic sense of just how tiny and insignificant we really are. And the photos are breathtakingly beautiful. This alone made the trip well worthwhile. Our admission was included in our cruise fare, but a single adult admission is $50, which sounds a bit steep but is truly worth every penny.

Other impressions from our visit included the huge size of the booster rockets and the very tiny size of the capsules where the astronauts were seated. Claustrophobia would definitely prevent you from joining their number. 
This is a BIG capsule--made for three, not just one person



Fortunately, the International Space Station is large enough to allow the crew to move about more comfortably, and even the Atlantis vehicle that is used to reach it seems huge compared to the early manned space capsules. 









 The final building in the complex houses a number of interactive displays where the kid in all of us can pretend to take the controls, feel for herself the power of the thrusters that hurtle us into space, steer the imaginary craft, and experience the silence of outer space after the rockets drop away. I asked one of the many docents there about how kids reacted to all this. I knew I was impressed, but wondered if children actually are even though you would expect them to be much more excited. She replied that it depends on the kid. Some, mostly little boys with big dreams, are nearly beside themselves with excitement. Others tromp through, interested but not actively thrilled. And of course, there are always some who are way too cool for school, bored, and boring, utterly passed over by anything that resembles interest, much less awe. I’m glad I’m not one of THEM!  By the end, we were impressed and starving—and then even more impressed when we were able to buy a veggie burger in the cafeteria.


We truly were overwhelmed with our visit, glad to have been able to see it and amazed that after all these years, even a dozen living right across the state, we have had no idea how worthwhile a trip to the Kennedy Space Center would be. If you haven’t been, go. You won’t regret it. It is the one port from this cruise we find ourselves urging others to visit on their own. Here is why. A country becomes great not because of the wars it wages, not even those it wins, but because of the big dreams it inspires and enables its citizens to achieve. In the current era of fruitless war that we have wallowed in for so long, I had almost forgotten the days when our space program swelled our hearts, expanded our minds, and underwrote the best of our humanity. Today's visit to the Kennedy Space Center brought all of that button-busting pride back to me. There are people now who say we can't afford to continue our exploration of space. We can't afford not to. They forget the enormous strides our scientists and engineers made and continue to make directly as a result of the space program and their impact on our everyday lives. They ignore the vast peaceful achievements of the international space program. They deny the inspiration this dream has been to generations of young people from every corner of our country and even the world. How much better to dedicate our national treasure to this goal and not to war. If we truly want to win hearts and minds around the world, perhaps we should demand that our nations leaders join the rest of her citizens in a visit to this monument to the dreams we fulfilled so recently in a time that seems far too long ago. Go. Have fun. Dream big. 

Charleston

Friday, April 18. Charleston. We have had two days and three nights at sea before arriving back in the States at Charleston, and I have to say, we were rocking and rolling in 10 or more foot seas the entire time. Fortunately, neither of us seems to get seasick, but walking around the ship was always a bit more interesting than usual. Good stabilizers helped a lot! 

Once in Charleston, not only was it still windy, but rain was also the order of the day. We had a bus tour of the quaint old city, but drizzle and sometimes actual rain put a real damper on any off-the-bus sightseeing. The garden tour, which we hadn’t been able to get on, was cancelled entirely, and frankly, our tour should have been as well. 
The Citadel

a lone cadet




We drove past The Citadel, which we enjoyed seeing, and then on into town and along the waterfront where all the beautiful old houses are located. Thank goodness this was not our first time in Charleston, because no one wanted to get off the bus to walk around and enjoy the area in the rain. 
Beautiful even in the rain

The azaleas have peaked--and the rain isn't helping a bit!


Once we got through the traffic of the town, we headed out to rendezvous with the ferry that would take us to Ft. Sumpter for a tour of that island fortress. As soon as we exited the ferry, the wind turned every single umbrella inside out and we were all pretty wet by the time we made the quarter mile hike to the fort itself. We were told we had to get off the boat and would not be able to get back on until 5pm, a few hours away. Our intrepid guide told us he was going to tell us more about the fort from the middle of the parade ground in the center if we would like to come along. Not a chance! Instead, nearly all of us huddled miserably under the only roof available, open to the wind, cold and damp. A few people crossed the parade to see the other side of the fort and use the facilities. John was one of them, and looked pretty comical trudging back with his sorry excuse for an umbrella teepee’d over his head. Eventually, mercifully earlier than 5, a few people went back to the ferry and were allowed to enter, so then most of the rest of us joined them. After over an hour of standing in the cold, almost out in the open, the shelter of the boat was more than welcome. All in all, this was probably the most miserable day we’ve ever had in all our years of traveling. We’ve been remarkably lucky! 

St. George, Bermuda

Tuesday, April 15. St. George, Bermuda. We had a surprise today! Last night our ship was supposed to have moved to its second Bermuda port, St. George. Again, this is a port larger ships can’t get into, but this time, we couldn’t either. It has been SO windy ever since we arrived here. We assumed this was fairly of normal, but it turns out it is not, and the high winds have prevented us from chancing the narrow channel we were scheduled to sail through to get to St. George. Not a problem, however, because St. George is actually just a few miles, maybe 45 minutes by road, from Hamilton. So once again, we boarded minivans and drove to our planned destinations for the day. By the way, minivans are just about the largest vehicles they have here. Streets are narrow and winding and land is at a premium, so that will never really change. In fact, families are limited to only one vehicle each because traffic is already heavy—nearly bumper to bumper sometimes.

We began our tour of St. George in the narrow streets near St. Peter’s Church, the oldest continuously operating Anglican church in the Western hemisphere, despite it’s modern-seeming clean lines.
St. Peter's Church





You would think it would be the cathedral, but after a bit of a war back in the day, Hamilton won out. Meanwhile, however, the relic of the unfinished St. George cathedral remains as a reminder of that old rivalry. We didn’t see that until the end of our day in St. George, and would have missed it altogether had John not insisted on a photo stop. 
The unfinished cathedral

In the meantime, we enjoyed strolling the narrow old streets and seeing the town, which seems much older and more quaint than Hamilton—the modern day business center for Bermuda. Twice as many people live in St. George as in Hamilton, but really, nearly all the population lives elsewhere on the islands. Apparently nearly all the residents of St. George are elsewhere during the day, because sleepy definitely describes the town we saw.











In the meantime, we enjoyed strolling the narrow old streets and seeing the town, which seems much older and more quaint than Hamilton—the modern day business center for Bermuda. Twice as many people live in St. George as in Hamilton, but really, nearly all the population lives elsewhere on the islands. 

Near King’s Square, we saw the Town Hall, a nice harbor, an old ship, and even a Town Crier. 
The harbor. This MIGHT have been the narrow passage our ship would have had to negotiate had the seas been calmer.


I don't know who this is, but he looks as windblown as we feel.






From there, we were driven to Ft. St. Catherine for a look at the old defenses of the islands. And at last, the Unfinished Church.


Better use of a gun port--a little planter!







Bermuda is British--which the residents have mixed feelings about.

 Our final stop was at a lighthouse where the wind was blowing more fiercely than ever but blue skies made even that seem fine. 


Summers here can be sultry, but we had none of that during our stay in Bermuda. In fact, we were cold much of the time and certainly windblown.