October 18, 2014 Saturday. We have spent the last 24 hours rolling slowly over bad track, sitting still waiting for other trains, or roaring along to try to make up time. Right now, we are at the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe, waiting for a new engine to be attached. Then we will roll for about 15 minutes until the entire train is on the bridge over the Zambezi River. We are not legally allowed to stop there, but Gareth tells us that all 72 "engineers" on board will be allowed to disembark to inspect the wheels and, oh yes, take some photos. As soon as we finish crossing the bridge we will arrive at Victoria Falls where we will again disembark, this time for our overnight stay at the Victoria Falls Hotel and related activities. We have been told to take our insect spray, so this is the real start of the part of the trip for which we have all been taking our malaria pills.

The train on the bridge where we conducted our "inspection"

  

Engineers inspecting trains on the bridge must be common. They were ready for us!

The Victoria Falls Hotel from the bridge

Our first glimpse of the Zambezi River

Later. Well, 15 minutes turned to 40, but at last we got our pictures, including one of a daredevil bungee jumper leaping off the bridge, and eventually really did arrive at the hotel. What a treat! It was built in 1904, is completely up to date but loaded with colonial charm. Our room seemed huge, with plenty of space for two double beds (complete with mosquito nets of the sort I always dreamed of having when I thought being a princess would be a good thing), a couch, dresser, desk and bar, as well as a huge bath with a claw foot tub, roomy shower, and period black and white tile. After our cramped train compartment, the Victoria Falls Hotel seemed like heaven. In fact, most of us would have loved to stay on. We heard later that a few people actually did leave the train there and apparently a few new people have arrived for the Victoria Falls to Pretoria leg of our journey.

Better him than either of us!

The front of the Victoria Falls Hotel

In the foyer, we are reminded the hunt for "big game" has a long tradition here

On our way to lunch, we meet a wart hog on the lawn

The bridge from the hotel lawn

Sleeping on the train--the couch converts to a bed and the ladder provides access to the upper bunk

Sleeping in the hotel.  Ahhhhh.

Our very efficient train bath

I want more than a tub...

The shower on the train. Really, it's perfectly fine!

And here's the shower in the hotel--better than fine. 

We had time for a buffet lunch and a short rest and then convened for a sunset cruise on the Zambezi River, which divides Zambia from Zimbabwe. 

At the river, we were greeted by dancers...

...and a witch doctor!

Just being out on the wide, peaceful river was fun...

...but then we saw hippos in the river--mostly just eyes and nostrils, but HIPPOS!  

 And then we saw two or three elephants standing on the bank, soon joined by more, each bigger that the last, until there were at least a dozen. Slowly they entered the water and enjoyed a cooling bath. Then all of them lined up to swim across from one country to the other, no passports required. It was a rare treat to see this and all of us were thrilled. 

Add caption

The sunset was beautiful, but paled a bit in comparison.