Our third day in Havana

Tuesday, September 22. This morning our lecture was about Havana's architecture. This is an old city built over several hundred years and therefore there are many periods of architecture here, from early 16th century through 19th-century colonial and ending with truly ugly Russian concrete boxes. Many cultures have contributed to Havana’s architecture. Once again we see the influence of the melting pot. The architecture most people find especially appealing in Havana and the rest of Cuba was constructed during the colonial period. Such beautiful old buildings that over the last 50 years fell into disrepair and even began to crumble. In more recent times, efforts have been made to salvage and restore as many of these old buildings as possible, given their lack of funds. They are using an interesting system to accomplish this. First they scrape together enough money to restore one building, usually  in a historic area. They turn that building into something that will create an income stream such as apartments, hotels, or restaurants. The income from that building is then turned back into restoration of another building in the same general area and so on, creating a restoration domino effect. Rather than displace people who might be living in these buildings, every effort is made to resettle them in the same area especially if it is close to their work. I suppose this works better than could be expected because the Cuban population is shrinking due to the expense of raising a child versus the very low wages one can earn here. One interesting thing is that by law eviction is not allowed. For this reason many people do not pay their rent. Why would they if they can't be evicted? To be clear, these buildings and businesses are government-owned. Private enterprise is gradually being allowed, but only in private homes. I hadn’t realized there WERE private homes in Cuba, but many families live in homes that have been in the family for generations.

After our lecture we visited two more of old Havana's most famous squares. The Plaza des Armas is centered by a statue of national hero, José Martí, and a large shady park, completely surrounded by stall after stall of booksellers. Here you can find books in Spanish and English, often at pretty good prices. The prevailing theme is books by and about Che. You can also find old cigar labels carefully displayed in plastic sleeves as well as many posters.

Colonial architecture with a dormant kapok tree. 

A few of the booksellers of the Plaza des Armas

A restored building

José Martí

You can pay to have your picture taken with these guys... 

...and these gals.

Very nearby is Cathedral Square, dominated by the largest and most important Catholic church in Cuba, constructed in what is known as the Cuban Gothic style, which is simpler, less ornate, but just as impressive as the European Gothic we are more accustomed to seeing.

On the way to Cathedral Square we passed this school of architecture where the old facade has been artfully combined with a very modern structure.

A pretty street along the way...

...features this fascinating mural depicting many people from Cuba's past.

First glimpse of the cathedral

The white dress typical of Santeria practitioners, a turban, a fan, and a cigar. ALL bases covered!

A Senteria practitioner and our fearless leader, Carole. SHE knows how to dress for Cuba--sundress and a fan.

Cathedral Square was the site of the mass Pope Francis performed on Sunday.

The Cathedral

Down an alleyway we were taken to a graphic arts studio where artists are able to work and print their creations, some of which were quite interesting. Overhead fans cool the air a little bit but we couldn't help wondering how the artists could work in the Havana heat without dripping all over the paper. We were given an hour or so to find a restaurant on our own to experience a less guided meal. Several of us ended up in a restaurant that seem to specialize in pizza. They had several tables with umbrellas outside but the heat and threat of rain caused us to eat indoors in the air conditioning. As we finished, a heavy downpour cooled the air outdoors a bit, but soon the heat returned. It has been very hot in Cuba as is typical I'm sure in September, and even those of us who like hot weather have found the heat and humidity hard to manage.

I love this free-spirited musician

Inside the graphic arts studio

We walked back through the squares to our bus and then on to a modern dance recital in a Jewish Temple where the dancers rent rehearsal space. No AC, no fans, no air moving at all. Most of us struggled to stay awake and felt doubly sorry for the dancers who had to be boiling hot, toiling in front of their rudely dozing audience. From here we were taken to a place where those who were interested could buy cigars at good prices or cruise a small craft mall.

We have seen some really nice public art on the streets of Havana.

Modern dance--a very hot business here!

For once we were back in the hotel fairly early—3:30. All of us were exhausted by the heat, humidity, and accumulation of days of activity. Naps, showers, and dinner on our own. Barbara and I decided to eat at the hotel instead of going to the highly popular Buena Vista Social Club, the destination about half of our group chose. Dinner there didn't even start until 8:30 PM with the show to follow. Those who went had a wonderful time listening to Cuban cabaret music and enjoying the dancing on stage. The rest of us old fogies went to bed early instead.